Of the many craft traditions that exits in the Indonesian archipelago,jewelry is one that is preserved by nearly all of the ethnic groups in Indonesia. Each ethnic groups produces jewelry that is distinctly different from the others.
Jewelry worn by the women and men serves different purposes. It's integral in traditional rituals and ceremonies. In most cases, jewelry carries symbolic meanings.
Bridal jewelry is primarily used to decorate and enbance the beauty of the bride and the charmr of the groom. The design of bridal jewelry is usually symbolic of prosperity, harmony, eternal love and fertility.
The use of materials and techniques in Indonesian jewelry designn are diverse, ranging from precious stones and gems to bird feathers. Some are even made of flowers and leaves.
NORTH SUMATRA
Almost the whole province of the North Sumatra is dominated by the Batak people, hence the Batak culture. The Batak people are widely dispersed across the mountainous regions of North Sumatra, from the North bordering with the province of Nangroe Aceh Darussalam, to the South alongside the provinces of Riau and West Sumatra. The Batak people inhabiting these regions belong to the Karo, Pak Pak, Simalungun, Toba, Angkola, and Mandailing tribes. They occupy most of the Karo highlands, Langkat Hulu, Deli Hulu, Serdang ulu, Simalungun, Dairi, Toba, Humbang, Silindung, Angkola, Mandailing areas, as well as the Regency of Central Tapanuli.
Marriage for the Batak people is regarded as an institution is which does not only unite a man and a woman, but is also means to establish interfamily relations between that of the bride and of the groom. This is one of the reasons behind the old customs denoting a man's restriction in choosing his bride. The ideal marriage for the Batak takes place when a man takes the daughter of his mother's brother as his wife. A Batak man or woman may not marry a member of the same clan as they are regarded as originating from the same family. The Batak people possess a wide variety of beautful and interesting of bridal costumes.
1) The Mandailing Batak
The Mandailing Batak groom normally dons a typical set of custome popularly known as teluk belanga and saring disuji with a specific headwear called songkok. The bride wears a long blouse or baju kurung berkain suji. She wears an ornamentation called bulang to decorate her head. Another headdress is jagar-jagar. Her neck is adorned with a tiered necklace called gajah meong and she wears braceletes to adorn her wrists.
2) The Karo Batak
The Karo bride wears a red blouse (kebaya) as is the general custome among Batak brides. She wears a headdress called uis jujung-jujungan decorated with golden sertali layang-layang kitik and kodang-kodang. On her neck she wears a sertali layang-layang and busa sidiberu. Another jewelry piece is the unique Salomon's Palm or Tapak Sulaiman ring. The Karo's groom head is adorned with a headdress called uis nipes beka buluh decorated with gold accesories called tudung mayang, sertali rumah-rumah kitik and rudang-rudang. He wears a necklace called kalung surtali tanduk kerbau or rumah-rumah. He wears a bracelet, leang balgoek on his right forearm and a ring or patilokan on his finger.
3) The Simalungun Batak
The Simalungun Batak cannot be parted from their Hiou cloth. This cloth is used in their wedding attire symbolizing kinship among the Simalungun people, known as Tolu Sahundulan. The cloth is used to cover the head, chest and lower torso. The headdress is made of cloth called hapias. He wears a boera-boera necklace and a dagger locally referred to as horis (keris) rests on his belt. The bride wears a headdress made of cloth decorated with buabanban and kudung-kudung. Her ears are adorned with padung-padung. She wears boera-boera necklace and a ponding or belt on her hips. The bride also wears a harung-sunganleang gadja dompak bracelet, or a leang hiboel. On her middle finger she wears a type of ring referred to as elephant's palm or tapak gajah.
4) The Toba Batak
The Toba Batak bride wears a headdress called saurtali decorated by a pair of gondang-gondang and bintang maratur. On her earlobes are pronged earrings (sibang mardakka). Her chest is deecorated with a pin (peniti ringgit) and a necklace (harung batu) while a gondimas is wrapped around her waist. Several types of bracelets (leang) adorn her wrists and on her finger is a wedding ring called tintin bunga gundur.
The Toba Batak grooms dons a headdress called tali-tali ragi sakar made from the celebrated ulos cloth of the Batak and a saurtali. A necklace made from a series from red, black and white colored piece of metal (horung-horung simata) adorns his neck. He wears a belt called the gondit mas or hos-hos. In addition, he carries a medicine bag on his right hip. The groom also puts on his wrists several types of bracelets : an ivory bracelet or golang puntu, a mangrove root bracelet with gold tips, and golang nabala, a large bracelet made from white gold, or platinum. On his finger is a tintin harunggun ring.
Sumber : Buku Wonderful Indonesia
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